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Guides

Leaking Pipes & Burst Pipes

Finding water that's going where it shouldn't, and stopping it before the ceiling comes down.

No call-out feeNo night or weekend surchargeFixed price before we start12-month workmanship guarantee

Stop the water first, diagnose second

Every leaking pipe follows the same first three steps regardless of cause: close the stopcock, open the cold taps to drain the pressure out of the system, and kill the electrics if water is anywhere near them. Do that before you try to work out what has failed. A pipe you have isolated is a repair booking; a pipe still under mains pressure is a ceiling coming down.

Where a leaking pipe usually is

Almost never where the damp appears. Water runs along joists, down the outside of pipework and along the underside of floorboards before it finds a gap to come through, so the wet patch marks the lowest point it reached, not the failure. This is exactly why speculative holes are the expensive part of a leak, and why detection equipment pays for itself the moment the alternative is opening three wrong places.

The four things that actually fail

Compression joints that were never fully tightened, or were disturbed later. Corroded copper, mid-century pipework perforates from the inside out, which is why the leak arrives with no warning. Freeze damage, which splits the pipe at the freeze but only leaks at the thaw. And push-fit used somewhere it should not have been, most often buried under a floor where nobody can inspect it.

How to tell a leak from condensation

Condensation forms evenly along a cold surface and is worst in humid weather. A leak has a source, gets worse when water is used, and leaves a mineral or rust mark as it dries. If you dry the pipe completely and wrap kitchen roll around it, an hour later the paper tells you which one you have, and where along the run it started.

When it is genuinely an emergency

Water you cannot stop, water near electrics, water coming through a ceiling, or water entering a neighbouring property. Those four warrant a callout at any hour. A slow weep into a bucket, with the stopcock accessible, can safely wait for a booked appointment, and we will tell you honestly on the phone which one you have rather than sending an emergency van you do not need.

Common questions
How do I stop a leaking pipe temporarily?
Turn the stopcock off, then open the lowest cold tap in the house to drain the pressure. A proprietary repair clamp or self-amalgamating tape will hold a small split on a drained pipe for a few hours. Gaffer tape and epoxy putty on a pressurised pipe will not, and the failure tends to happen while everyone is asleep.
Is a leaking pipe covered by home insurance?
The damage caused by escaping water is covered by most UK policies. The failed pipe itself often is not, and gradual leaks are frequently excluded on the grounds that they should have been noticed. Trace and access cover pays for finding it, which is the part people most often do not realise they already have.
How much does it cost to fix a leaking pipe?
An accessible leak, under a sink, in an airing cupboard, in a visible run, is typically £150 to £280 including the repair. Buried pipework needing detection and floor access runs £280 to £600. Both include the written fixed price before work starts.
Can I use a leak sealant additive?
For a very small leak in a sealed heating system, as a temporary measure, sometimes. Never on a mains water pipe, and never as a permanent answer, the same chemistry that plugs a pinhole also settles in the boiler heat exchanger and the pump. It buys weeks and can cost you a boiler.
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Water where it
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