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Soakaways in London

A soakaway takes rainwater from your roof or driveway and disperses it into the ground rather than into a sewer.

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Done right it stops a garden flooding and satisfies planning conditions. Done wrong, or full of silt after fifteen years, it is why the water is coming back towards the house.

Soakaways in London: what the price includes

  • 01
    Percolation test first, always

    BRE Digest 365 sets the method: dig the trial pit, fill it three times, time the drop. It tells you whether a soakaway will work here at all and how big it has to be. Anyone quoting without one is guessing, and on clay they are usually guessing wrong.

  • 02
    Sized to the roof, not to the hole

    The volume is calculated from the area draining into it and the measured infiltration rate. Undersized soakaways do not fail immediately, they fail in the first serious storm, which is the worst possible time to discover it.

  • 03
    Crates or rubble, and why it matters

    Modular crates give roughly 95% void against about 30% for rubble, so they do the same job in a third of the excavation. Wrapped in geotextile, they also stay clear far longer. On a small London garden that difference decides whether the job is possible.

  • 04
    Distance from the building

    Five metres minimum from any structure under Approved Document H, and further on shrinkable clay. Too close and you are irrigating your own foundations, which is the cause behind a good share of the "mystery damp" we get asked about.

  • 05
    Unblocking an existing one

    Most failed soakaways are not broken, they are silted. Jetting the inlet, excavating the inspection point and flushing the media brings a lot of them back for a fraction of a replacement, and we will always test that before quoting a new one.

Local conditions we work around

Soakaways are harder to get right in much of London than people expect, because London clay drains slowly and the water table in low-lying areas sits high. A percolation test is what decides whether a soakaway will work at all on your ground, and skipping it is why so many fail within a couple of winters. Where the ground will not take it, the honest alternatives are attenuation or a permitted surface-water connection, and we will say which your site actually needs.

Where we work in London

Same price and the same guarantee in every area below. Each has its own page with the streets we cover.

Soakaways in London, your questions

How do I know my soakaway has failed?
Standing water over it after rain, a gully that backs up in a storm, or a patch of garden that stays soft for days. If the ground above it is wetter than the ground around it, it is full.
Can I have a soakaway on clay?
Sometimes, but the percolation test decides it. On heavy London clay the infiltration rate is often too low, and the honest answer is a different solution, an attenuation crate with a restricted outfall, or a connection to the surface water sewer with the water company's consent.
Do I need permission?
Not usually for a domestic soakaway replacing an existing drainage arrangement. New driveways over five square metres do need permeable drainage under planning rules, and building control will want the percolation figures if it forms part of a build.
How long does a soakaway last?
Fifteen to twenty-five years for a crate system with geotextile, less for rubble, and considerably less for anything that also receives silt from an unfiltered driveway. A catchpit on the inlet is the cheapest way to extend it.
Can rainwater go into my foul drain?
No. Connecting surface water into a foul sewer is an offence and it is what surcharges the combined system in heavy rain. Where a property already has that connection we can tell you, and it is worth knowing before you sell.

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