Due to the presence of salts in municipal water, which are often natural and even essential, pipes and heat exchangers such as samovar and kettle are being deposited, to guide you in this regard and for clean sediment from water heaters. We have prepared.
Causes and Reasons for Clean Sediment from Water Heaters
Sedimentation of water heater pipes causes the diameter of the pipes to decrease
Sediments reduce the heat transfer from the flame to the water by thickening the wall of the water heater converter. This decrease in thermal conductivity, in turn, causes heat loss and damage to the outer wall as well as to the noise in the pipes.
Another contributing factor to the heat exchanger tube deposition is the point heating of the heat exchanger tube at the top of the candle, which in some cases does not disappear even with the deposition material. As a result, we have to cut the pipe and weld it again.
One of the reasons for the removal of candles in new models of water heaters is to fix this problem. Adjusting the flame and extinguishing it when not in use for a long time can greatly improve the water heater’s performance.
Failure to adjust the spark plugs and the incomplete desalination of the wall water heater will require de-sedimentation every three months.
Ingredients for clean sediment from water heaters
Chloric acid or 20% salt inks are used to remove sediment inside the heat exchanger. Always keep these substances in sealed containers so that their toxic vapor does not cause respiratory problems and be careful not to spill onto other surfaces.
Highlights clean sediment from water heaters
- Before de-sedimenting, first, look around the converter
- Then visit the converter ceiling flashlight below
- The worn-out spots are covered with gypsum and will drip after deposition.
- If you see these symptoms, you should cover the worn spots with silver
- But if the burnout is more than a few points, you need to replace the converter.
Deposition of water heater is done in two ways:
Gravity method and pump method.
1. The pump does not open the water heater during the desalination process with the pump
2. By removing the frame on it and opening the bottom nut, the pump is connected to the water heater and then de-sedimentation is carried out.
However, in deep desalination, your water heater will open to discharge the converter. It is then poured into the converter with a funnel of salt or acid. For this reason, it is best to carry out the gravity procedure only when needed and by experts.
Required pumping equipment for clean sediment from water heaters
In this method, we place the acid pump in the acid container.
Connect the outlet of the pump to one side of the heat exchanger and connect the other side of the heat exchanger to the container using a rubber hose. After a few minutes, the whole mass pump is pumped into the heat exchanger.
After finishing work, pour clean water into the container and wash the converter with water.
- Acid wash pump
- Flexible hose 2
- Suitable plastic container for pouring acid
- 1 gallon acid
- 1 gallon of water
- Mouth mask
Before starting, make sure the water inlet valve is closed.
In this method, after draining the water in the heat exchanger tube, we place the acid pump in the acid container and connect the pump outlet to one side of the heat exchanger and connect the other side of the heat exchanger to the drain using a rubber hose.
- We turn on the pump.
- We continue deposition until the acid exits without foam.
- After the work is done, wash the converter with water
- We close the connections.
Equipment required by gravity method for clean sediment from water heaters
- 20 mm polypropylene pipe one meter
- Bushen P.P
- Rubber hose 2 pcs
- Medium plastic hopper
- Suitable plastic container for collecting acid output from the converter
- Rubber gloves
- White protective glasses
- Large plastic pan for pouring water and converting it
- Disposable Mask
- Hydrochloric acid
- Salt ink (20% 2 liters)
This procedure is recommended only to specialists
Highlights when charging a home water heater:
At the first moment, the acid enters the exchanger, due to a severe chemical reaction from the top of the funnel, it breaks down to a large extent, causing damage if ignored.
Be careful not to overload as soon as the acid is poured into the hopper.
After pouring all the acid into the transducer, repeat this operation several times to completely remove all the sediment inside the transducer and have no acid pads.
In the first step, when the acid enters the converter, the converter output is flat. This lowers the amount of time the acid goes away. Once the mass has been fully converted, no foam with the acid will be removed.
When finished, remove the acid container and pour pure water into the hopper until the converter is thoroughly washed.
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